Portfolio Project - Making Page.January 2016 - May 2016

I started testers on the week commencing 15th Feburary 2016
To see the beginning of the project see the Research and Design page.

Pin sword - Blade

Thinking about the pin sword, there were multiple materials it could be made from. My initial thoughts were wood or some form of metal. Thanks to some research combined with talking to my tutor I found a few basic options. Acrylic dowel, wooden Dowel and possibly aluminium. 

Here experimented with 1 cm acrylic dowel. I sanded down the end with a belt sander.

H+S - When sanding by hand or with a machine, wear a dust mask and use reasonable precaution when fingers are near the machine 

The surface became rough and it required sanding by hand with sandpaper. In terms of the material and its functionality as the pin sword's blade, its strong, but has the negative aspect of the finish being hindered by the sanding process.

Here I used 12 mm wooden dowel, sanded with a belt sander. This picture is before the next stage of sanding with sand paper. This material is good for the pin sword, it is sturdy and can hold the distressing whilst also being able to be smoothed and can be finished to look like metal with the right paint/spray paint.   

This is the pin sword tester, with the acrylic rod and the sphere on the end is made from a ball pit ball which is the perfect size at 6 cm in diameter.

Full length photo. The scaling up of the pin, 12 x the length is actually half of the size (from 30 cm to 60 cm). I doubled the length of the pin to give it more presence, it allows for more design elements like a hilt to protect the hand of the user.

Marcella button shield - Test

       

To test my design for Marcella's button I made a KAPA foam board sculpt. This allowed me to see how the design looked from a distance, how the size of the design relates to the size of the button itself. Making this tester also allows a chance for any changes to be made on the real thing.

Cedric's button shield - turning on the lathe.

18 mm MDF 120 cm in height, cut into four pieces.

Cutting at a right angle is important, this line also gives a guide for the cut. The circular saw was used for this as it is quick and offers a clean cut.

 The end result I am looking for here is essentially a cube of MDF made from four squares. To attach the squares together I used Gorilla glue, which bonds best to a damp surface, I used a spray bottle of water to wet the surface. The glue is then applied in a spiral pattern starting from the centre. repeat this until each square is attached, making sure that each side of the board that touches glue is damp. Gorilla glue expands as it sets so the squares have to be clamped together for the 3 or so hours it takes to fully set.

I used the ban saw to cut out the 10" circle, the size for Cedric's shield (based on the fist or buckler shield of the medieval.) 

The attachment for the lathe of the has to be attached in the middle of the the wood to achieve the most even surface.

I tried several different lathe tools, mostly to test them and see the effect they on the wood. I used the tool on the left the most along with a large version. I used the tool on the right for the middle more because it was sharper.

H+S - The Lathe spins at a high velocity causing a lot of saw dust to be flung into the air, ensure goggles and a dust mask is worn at all times. 

This is the finished product, the part in the centre of the shield is slightly raised as a nod to the buckler shield which has an extra half sphere in the centre. 

Sword blade - testers

Testers of distressing and spray painting of the wooden dowel  (the material I have chosen for the pin swords)

After sanding the wooden dowel down to a blunt point, I used sanding sealer to seal the wood down, this will allow the spray pain to adhere to a consistent surface rather than being absorbed by the wood.

I primed the dowel with white primer, this will further seal the wood and create a god clear base for the silver paint. I used metallic spray paint which I will then distress.

H+S - when spraying, ensure you are in a well ventilated area.

Cedric's button shield

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After vacuum forming the turned wooden dome (1) this became the mould for the fibre glassing. I used this spray release agent (2) in two layers allowing them to dry in between layers. 

H&S - When working with resins or fibreglass you will need a gas/vapour and particulate respirator, gloves (I used two layers of latex gloves) goggles, full overalls and a well ventilated area. Misuse of equipment and substances can lead to harm to yourself and others around you.

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(3) Due to the round nature of the button the easiest way to work with it is when it is supported by a bucket. (4) Tiranti gel coat and hardener is what I used to do the initial gel coat. 

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I used 150g of gel coat and 1% of the hardener and what eventually came to 250% brass filler powder. 

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(7) Pouring some of the gel coat into the mould pulling rather than brushing the resin to the edges consistently and evenly.

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Fibreglass a fabric made of glass fibres embedded in a resin matrix. This matrix is broken up by the laminating resin (to be used in the next step) and when it hardens the combination becomes very strong.

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(9) The mould is now completely full, I brought the gel coat up over the edges a little, this can be sanded down later and insures that the edges are as strong as the rest.

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I broke the fibreglass sheets up into smaller pieces (11) important to rip not cut, it allows for a smoother finish as the strands can interlink. It is harder to create a smooth finish with hard lines of cut fibreglass. (12) The laminating resin is green when mixed with the hardener turns green.

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(13) Using the brush I painted the fibreglass with the laminating resin, pushing the brush in hard to break up the fibres.

In this video you can see the process of fibre glassing. First brushing on the laminating resin, then adding the small pieces of ripped fibreglass. 

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(14) I ended up with two layers, this is enough to be very strong one hardened.

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The fibreglass was brought up over the edge of the mould onto the gel coat and over. This can be cut and sanded later but allows for the edges to be strong as well as being the same thickness as the middle.

All brushes should be cleaned immediately with acetone and wipes wiped. Any plastic pots can be left to harden and the contents can be chipped out with ease and the cup reused. 

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Using the draught table (a ventilated table that allows dust to be sucked down, minimising the risk of harmful resin dust being thrown about in the air)  I used the diamond tipped oscillating saw to cut off the remaining fibreglass.  

H+S - goggles and a dust mask should be worn at all times, during this process.

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To just above the plastic with a consistent edge.  

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To get the gel coat to set fully (as the cold air of the resin room had not fully allowed it to harden) I put the button in the workshop oven on a heat of 50 degrees C for 5 - 10 minuets just to encourage the reaction to finish.

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I used a sanding board to remove the extra lip of resin and fibreglass.

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Close up of sanded edge.

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Before going on to the next step of the gel coat, Cedric's button needed a handle. I used a 3 mm brass rod to create it. To bend the rod, a small device that heated up the metal in a specific point using a hot flame. This was then able to be bent in the vice. 

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I left the handle with 1" extra so that it could be attached to the inside the button.

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I used super glue to stick the brass rod to the surface and hold it in place before going over it with body filler.

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Body filler requires a hardener about 2% hardener to filler. The percentage is obviously different to each task you wish to use it for. the more filler used, the quicker the paste will harden.

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The body filler achieves a cheesy consistency after a minuet or so allowing the material to be carved, as it hardens more it cam be sanded. to a smoother finish. I then repeated the process of  fibreglassing over the ends and then gel coat using 100g of gel coat with 250% brass powder. 

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What can potentially be called the worst gel coat (26) in the universe on the inside of  resulted in me re-doing it, this time using a home made plastic spatula to create a smoother surface as the previous job would have taken weeks (no joke) to sand down by hand.

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I then began to distressing the top surface of the button to give it a more worn look. As Cedric is only 12 and would not have been in any serious fights the damage is caused by training with Boian.

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I focused on the top of the shield as thought the blows to it cm from above and the fist shield was brought up to parry the blow.

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Left over resin button (about 7 cm across) 

Upon cleaning up the resign room after my  final gel coat, I used the left over gel coat with brass powder and made another small button. This would be smaler than a shirt button, prehaps a fashion button on a top or a tiny button on dolls clothes.

Pin swords

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For the head of the pin. To get more texture and improve the strength even more, I used body filler (1) to go over the newly expanding foam filled ball pit balls (2) .  

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Colouring the top of the pin swords.

Gold for Cedric, it fits in with his colour scheme of oranges and yellows and will be considerably less ostentatious one I distress the sphere. Using the body filler as a guide, (3) I masked off the the silver blade from the ball. (4) The gold slips over edge of the blade because, the way I think pins are made is the pin head is dipped into the coloured plastic.

With Boian's the masking came off a little so the red went over onto the silver too much. I masked it off again with paper and tape, respraying with silver.

Green for Marcella. Next I will distress the swords and add the grip, hilt and personalisations. 

I used black acrylic paint to distress the pins. By rubbing the acrylic over the surface and then wiping of the excess so the paint settles in the lower areas.

The making of a real pin head's colour, I assume involves dipping it into the desired colour and allowed to dry. I emulated this with the making of this pin, the distressing brought this out.

Boian's pin

Cedric's pin

I think this is a good first layer. It is important to remember that this is for theatre so I need to make some more elements bolder. For instance add more to the cuts in the blade to make it more pronounced.

Boian's button

I want Boian's shied to be plastic, so I made a mould our of MDF and created the sloped rim with clay. 

As well as mimicking the button that this was based on, this rim will make wooden base easier to get out of the vacuum formed plastic.

((vac form vid.))

The holes of the button are made mostly from 18 mm MDF, this also gives support to the space between the top and bottom sides of the button whilst keeping it light.  

The back is made of Foamex (a type of PVC sheet) attached to the MDF centre and the plastic by Superglue. 

I used Body Filler and sandpaper to smooth the button holes and the edges of the button where there were small gaps between the foamex and vac forming plastic.

Costume

Thinking  about costume for the photo shoot.

Looking at the scale is the most important thing of this project, that it translates to the audience as larger than life. This jumper for instance is a very large knit and is simple in shape and pattern. I think it is plausible that it could be knitted by a borrower e.g with needles and stolen thread.

Close up picture of the knit.

This is a much longer and has a looser knit with thinner wool. Both these jumpers can be used for the borrower shoot, when distressed. It could be distressed with patches, emulsion paint, coffee, Fullers earth (a clay powder that acts like dust for distressing but can also be used as a filler in plaster, paint and adhesives). 

Marcella's shield

I got 24mm manilla rope to act as the scaled up version of string. In threading it through the button in the way I imagined it looks ok from the top.

But from the side it looks wrong, it is too big. Instead I will only loop it through two diagonal holes.

To cut the rope I bound the rope in tape and cut it with the ban saw while keeping it taut.

I then put super glue to the ends to prevent the rope fraying and unravelling.

Thinking about the handle and how it should best be made, and how the borrowers themselves could make it. I think that with the string and thread it would be simple enough for them to get their hands on and strong enough to be feasible as a handle.

I looped it through two opposite holes of the button, it is wrapped in string that could be dyed to look more like embroidery thread.

Full picture of rope handle test. Once distressed and coloured I think this will be very effective both structurally and visually as the rope is very stiff.

Match

Giant match next. I found some scrap wood and cut it down to size. To make the head of the match I made the base out of a dense foam, this will be strong enough whilst keeping it light.

I formed the basic round shape with the rasp.

Before sanding to get a smooth surface.

I used body filler to cover any seams or holes. this also gives it a strengthening layer. To achieve the texture of the the larger wood grain I used a very old dry paintbrush that gives a good uneven grain in the Artex. I also added sand for the match head for the enlarged texture.

Painted- the light wood colour and red-ish brown for the head, this will be distressed and glazed.

Walnut Helmet

After working out the size and drawing the shape on the of cuts off MDF. To bulk out the sculpt and reduce the amount of clay needed, I built up the desired inner shape with polystyrene.

The basic build up of the shell involves placing the little blobs of clay onto the surface and blending them in.

Once blended in and with the help of the irregular polystyrene shape that creates a very natural formation that is an ideal foundation.

With the addition of clay sausages on the front to get the shape of the shell that would be attached to the tree. I also added and blended in some clay sausages around some of the flatter areas to bring out the shape. As this is going to be vacuum formed with 3 mm Vac forming plastic there is a potential for details to be lost.

So that the vacuum former gets as much detail as possible, holes are drilled in the base.

These holes allow the air to be sucked down closer to the sculpt therefore getting more detail.

These are the final Vac formed shells, one smaller than the other as not all walnuts are the same size. I cut the shell out from the plastic with a dremmel and sanded it flat by hand.

The inside lip of the walnut is made of foamex I drew around each shell and drew and cut a natural shape inside.

I used super glue to attach the two pieces together, this will be the strongest bond.

Any small gaps will filled with body filler, to make sure the body filler sticks to the plastic I ran a line of superglue  along the the edge of the holes so the body filler would have something strong to adhere to.

Because these will be worn by actors they need to be more comfortable than plastic whilst keeping the illusion of the inside of a walnut. To complete this I used foam to re-create a natural structure, using contact adhesive adhesive.

H+S - ensure you are in a well ventilated area when using contact adhesive, wear gloves and avoid contact with skin.

After a few testers I found that the best way to keep the comfort whilst creating colour is to dilute the emulsion paint down and absorbing any big bits with paper towel. 

The first layer of colour matches the light yellow of the main hat. I used Covent garden primer on the outside of the helmet so that the paint will adhere to it.

I continued from the simple light base coat by adding shadows to the lower parts and highlights to the highest points.

From a distance it needs to be recognisable. I added darker tones to the lowest points to make it more prominent.

I glazed the helmet with mat glaze, this replicated the slight shine that fresh walnut shells have as well as adding a layer of protection.

This is the finished helmet.

I darkened the foam on both between the pieces to define them better.

I also darkened the rim, it gives contrast between the foam and rim that can be seen form afar.

Boian's button

Using convent garden primer allows the paint to stick to the vacuum forming plastic that usually wouldn't stay happily. I used a sponge and stippled each layer on, this allows for an even coat without brush lines that could be picked up by the distressing process.

I finished 2-3 layers of paint and then added a layer of glaze to seal in the paint and to give a plastic effect.

to start the distressing process I used black emulsion paint to pick up the small details from the sponging process.

Using a clean damp sponge I removed some of the paint in straight lines.

Using the rubbed away lines as guides I used the edge of a old hard sponge to draw lines parallel. From afar the lines look like scratches from a pin sword or other borrower weapon.

darkening teh inner edge of the button also allows for it to be recognisable from a distance.

I also ran some paint around the edges on the button to show where the edges are.

The back has basic dirtying but will not be seen as much as the front.

I decided not to have a crest or emblem on Boian's shield as I wanted to show how beaten up it was with big scratches, any other designs on it would become a mess and be confusing to the audience.

I also got some 10mm manilla rope to use for the handle of the pin swords and Cedric's button handle. in this photo the rope has been aged with watered down black emulsion and sandpaper. 

Marcella's button is all but done. I added more black paint in the detail of the laser cut pattern and the inner rim of the button to give it definition.

Distressed back of button.

All props together. As a set there is a clear outlier, Cedric's dome button needs  more definition in the little scratches.

Close up

Rope

I had the opportunity to make some hemp rope using the classic methods.

This method of making rope starts with several strands that are wound very tightly together by a handle on each end of the device.

This wooden tool keeps the strands even and taught as they are spun together.

 Pencil fence

A big part of the original set is the pencil fences that lead the eye into the centre of the stage, they also give the audience a sense of scale to judge the other items.

The fence in the set is rather large, 4+ meters in length and up to 3 meters tall, of course for this project we have limited space and I also have the show at New Blades to think about and the limited space there. So I have decided to make a corner piece so that I can photograph my pieces in situe, and it will fit in both my workspace and New Blades exhibition space. These pencils could be made several ways, 3D or 2D? To create a line of pencils with three sides showing it could be carved from polystyrene and then strengthened using plaster of Paris bandages. Alternatively it could be made from strips of Foamex or MDF that are cut at angles to join together to make the pencils shape. The 2D option would require less build and scenic painting techniques to give the effect of the dimensions. as well as being more of a challenge for my painting skills, a 2D piece would be easier to transport.

I started off with 6 mm MDF. There is two boards of 61 cm by 210 cm each. Each pencil is 8.7 cm wide and there are seven on each board. Using the image of the 1:25 scale pencils from the set I drew out the tops of the pencils at varying heights.

I chose to create a triangular shape to emphasize the height and increase the grandeur of the set whilst mimicking the original that worked in a similar way. 

H+S - When working with heavy machinery like a ban saws and Jig Saws, wear goggles, work in a well ventilated area, wear eye and ear protection.

I built frames for each of the boards, this prevents the board from warping when painting and makes it stronger for transit and more stable.

The right side has an extra support for the shortest pencil that requires it.

Finishing off Marcella's shield.

As everything is scaled up in this project, string becomes scaled up thread and rope scaled up string. The handle for Marcella's button is made of string wrapped in thread. As thread comes in many different colours I aim to dye the string I use different colours (whilst fitting into the characters colour scheme) to make it seem as though they have stolen different scraps.

Marcella's colour scheme is greens and browns, also because they live in a dark and damp environment I rubbed in a darker wash. 

Like in the tester previously, I wrapped the rope in the coloured string in a haphazard manner whilst keeping it taught enough to hold the rope together.

I trimmed and frayed the edges to keep the dishevelled theme. I used a dark wash to give a well used look to both the rope and the string 

Boain's shield.

Boain's Shield Enarmes (the straps on the back of a shield which the arm passes through to carry the shield), is made in a similar manner to Marcella's. However as this is a much larger shield it cannot be carried like hers can it needs more support. In this image I dyed the string a dark yellow to match Boian's colour scheme.

This idea is for Boain's button, the match is held on by the rope in the button holes, the match then holds the rope hand holds for the enarmes.

I threaded the rope through the button holes as two separate pieces.

With enough out the other side to wrap around, the match.

The match fits snugly between the ropes. I painted a black wash in between the strands of the rope, this ages it whilst making it more contrasted and visible to the audience.

Using the previously dyed string I secured the 24 mm rope around the match. Using the 10 mm rope I made the hand holds, adjusting it to the appropriate size to fit an arm and tight enough for a good grip.

Here you see the final piece the hand holds work well, the fact that the button is light weight means that it won't cause the actors arm much strain.

With some excess string I made another layer of wrapping around the handle, the really secured the 10 mm rope and stopped it from moving around.

Pencil Fence cont.

This hand router is used to trim edges to be flush with those underneath it, I used it to neaten the bottom of the pencil fence construction to make sure it sits flat.

H+S - wear a dust mask and goggles, this machine kicks up a lot of saw duct when working with MDF.

This is the completed construction, the wood supports the flat for painting to avoid wood warping during the painting process.

I started with a white emulsion priming coat, this allows the wood to absorb this instead of the coloured paint; absorption is the reason  that wood warps as it dries, hence the frame support. A priming coat also covers any imperfections the wood may have and gives a clean canvas on which to paint. I painted the initial tips wood beige.  

Using the image of the set's pencil fence I draw on the line between the main pencil and wood.

The initial orange I followed my lines with a paint brush and used a roller for the rest to get an even finish.

Once dried I drew the lines of the pencil on, using the top lines as a guide to where the lines of each pencil are. Scaled up the thickness of the pencils are about 9 cm.

I also choose a few pencils at random to add the silver rubber holders to.

H+S - When painting, cover surfaces beforehand to avoid getting paint on the floor, this limits clean up time and lessens the chance of slipping on wet paint on the floor is spilled.

Painting involved using the lines as a guide, to paint the the appropriate panels of the pencils  darker/lighter.

Using a sponge and a dark wash I added a grimy texture and shadows between the pencils. it is important not to get bogged own in the tiny details and remember that this would be viewed from many meters away.

When painting the silver ends, I started with a light grey base.

I them used grey-white and black to create the highlights and shadows. With a dark wash I dabbed the edges to create the curvature.

On the left is the finished pencils, on the right you can see I added an extra element (like in the set) the pencils are held together with thread.

I also dabbed a light wash around the lines to break it up and give the illusion of built up dust and grime.

I painted around the edges of the pencil top to continue the 3D look.

Sword handles

I used the 10 mm rope make the grip, I secured it with super glue and hot glue whilst wrapping it to keep it hidden.

I made the guard with the remaining rope, securing it with string. This sword belongs to Cedric, so has a defensive rather than offensive hand guard design,

For the two other sword's designs have a more offensive guard, inspired by the Horde's sword from the Narnia films. The grip is made from a bent acrylic based on the spring of a peg. To bend the rod I used a 9 mm dowel (the same as the swords), supported by a vice, I used a heat gun to soften the plastic a bit at a time and with gloved hands bent it around the dowel. The heat causes the outer surface of the plastic to bubble which is an effect I really loved, with painting and distressing this will look like textured metal. 

H+S - When heating plastic, harmful vapours can be emitted, wear a mask and thick gloves to protect your hands from heat damage.

I created the grip for both swords out of scrap material that has a large grain to act as scaled up material.

After priming with black spray painted them silver.

With black acrylic I rubbed it into the texture of the bubbly plastic and wiped off the excess so that the left over sticks in the texture. I also brushed paint in between the curved plastic to make it more visible from afar.

Costume Distressing,

As a base I used very strong coffee to age the wool on both jumpers.

Once dried, the colour was less noticeable, I can use paint to enhance certain areas.

Using the initial coffee stains as a guide I used a sponge and varying strengths of brown emulsion paint to build up a dirty look, focussing attention on the neckline and the hem and the sleeve cuffs as these would gather most grime in day to day wear.

I was able to source to pairs of brown trousers. I bought to shades for variety and very plain textures so that I can paint the giant texture on using dry brushing. 

 To get a creased effect in the material I gathered up the fabric randomly and sponged on the paint, when unfolded this creates the illusion of creases.

I also used lighter variants and splashed and dabbed it on to break up the colour, I will now paint some grain texture in parts to give illusion of a scaled up fabric.   

Half scissor

18 mm MDF from a board of 150 cm by 36 cm, I drew out the scissor shape based on the image below. The handle has been routed to make it rounded. The blade of the handle has been sanded down on the one side to mock the sharp bit of the blade. Before painting I sanded some elements smooth by hand, and sealed the MDF with sanding sealer.

H+S - Use goggles and a mask when sanding. goggles and ear defenders when using a ban saw.

Google.co.uk. (2016). half a pair of scissors - Google Search. [online] Available at: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=half+a+pair+of+scissors&espv=2&biw=1092&bih=650&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjJzvCV_o3MAhVF0RQKHWS1B5wQsAQIKg#imgrc=JMQcwtSQ300y2M%3A [Accessed 14 Apr. 2016].

This is the reference image I have found to work off for the shape and the paint job.

I primed the half scissor with black emulsion then spray painted it with silver metallic spray paint. Priming wood is usually necessary as woods like MDF have the habit of absorbing paint.

I painted the scissor with black using difference strengths to create different tones and depths.

 Belt with Button fastening

When making the scissors,  I had some left over MDF, the perfect size for a scaled up 1 cm button. out of the six, I used two for the belts as fasteners. I spray painted one green and one red to match the scheme of Marcella and Boian. Here you can see the distressing, I used 80 grain sandpaper to roughen the surface.

I then used black emulsion paint on the edges and in the scratches made by the sandpaper.

The belt itself is made of Hessian its a simple straight band sewn with a sewing machine in a similar colour thread, this will not be visible 

There are loops for holding the pin swords, the hilt of the sword stops it from falling through. 

I sewed the button on the belt using normal thread, I did it so it goes easily through the Hessian with ease. I then super glued some distressed string through the holes to give the illusion of a scaled up thread.

For the scaled up thread I used hot glue to create the stitches, I then painted them black to get as much contrast against the Hessian.

Costume stitches

For the jumpers the knit was loose enough to sew the string through, I used some masking tape to make a more solid end.

I kept each stitch far enough apart so that they are visible from afar. 

I stitched along the neckline, sleeve seam and  cuff .

For the trousers I used the same technique as the belts, this time I used a green stitch instead of the black on this pair to fit in with the colour scheme of Marcella.

Thread Spool

I bought a large wooden cable reel to be the basis for a wooden bobbin/thread spool.

H+S - this item is heavy, do not attempt to lift without assistance. If alone, roll it. 

This picture that I will use for the basis for my painting of the real thing.

The top of the cable reel has nuts and bolts so to cover this on the visible top I cut a circle of 6 mm MDF to fit over the top.

This drill bit is to cut out the hole in the centre. 

H+S - Wear safety goggles, use on a draft table or wear a dust mask.

It is about 1 cm smaller so I will need to rout around so it is flush.

To stick it down I used PVA glue and clamped it down in the right place with G clamps before using the nail gun to secure it, making sure that it was short enough as to not poke through the bottom.

Once routed the hole in the centre can be filled with body filler to smooth it out.

I also used body filler on the edges to cover the multiple layers.

I also filled the holes made by the industrial staples.

After priming it white I painted it to match the source image I found.

I found some old spools in the costume room, working from the real thing rather than the Google image, this means I can see the details and colours clearer.

I have chosen this as my design to re-create. I would like to only make half of the label  to make it look less neat and fit in better with the rest of the set.

I painted the basic label on before drawing the details on. In this picture you can see I carried the label through to the inside of the hole.

I mottled the colour to look more like aged paper then drew on the details and painted using acrylics. 

I matched the colours to those on the thread spool. I purposefully made the background lighter than  the original so that the colour on top would contrast with it and be more visible from a distance.

The picture itself is dark but you can see I made a dark wash and stippled it with a sponge to create a dirty/damp look I also added a small shadow around the edges to make the effect of it being a stuck on the bobbin.

I tried 2 mm string witch is the correct scaled up version of thread but is not overly visible from even a distance. As I don't want it to be full and see the wood behind it, the string needs to be thicker so it is more visible.

This is 10 mm Manila Rope  as you can see it is much more visible and creates better shadows. I just need to dye/paint it red. I have chosen red so that it contrasts with the light wood, similarly to how the label stand out.

I spent my weekend painting the rope red. I chose not to soak or dye the rope as this can cause the rope to shrink and takes a longer time to dry. Once fully dry I distressed it a little with a dark wash and wrapped it around my spool. I chose to wrap it as though the thread had been used and re-wrapped around haphazardly.  

From kneeling on the bottom of the spool I cracked the filler that covered the lines in the wood, so I re-filled them with body filler.

I painted it to fit in with the rest of the paint job.

Here is a selection of my final images, to see the rest click here to go to my website.